Since the '80s, athletes from South America and Europe have flocked to Maui's north shore, so don't be surprised if you overhear conversations in Portuguese, Spanish, and French. Both Paia and Haiku have hippie roots tempered by an influx of new money; the result is a global village with hearty, healthy restaurants and everything from tattoo parlors to boutiques selling $200 bikinis.
Lodging:Haiku Plantation Inn is a historic home turned B&B five minutes from the best north shore beaches. It offers lomi lomi massages and other healing remedies, including a ceremony in which you drink a tea infused with kava, a mildly stimulating root Hawaiians call awa. While Mama's Fish House is famous for serving the best food on Maui in a Polynesian-style tiki mansion right on the beach (entr?es start at $32), most folks don't know that Mama's also rents stylish beach cottages, including five one-bedrooms with kitchens and patios. Alas, staying there gets you no discount on dinner.
Food: Hawaiians favor fatty, salty foods, which makes a health-food store like Mana Foods so welcome. The Paia Fish Market, a casual place to see and be seen, offers a tasty, satisfying mahi taco plate with home fries, coleslaw, or Cajun rice for $11. Colleen's is a cavernous caf? in the same complex as Studio Maui (see below), popular for post-yoga chat-and-chai.
Activities: The galvanizing event of the winter, drawing hundreds of spectators into the pineapple fields to watch with binoculars, is tow-in surfing at Jaws--a 40-foot-plus wave made famous by extreme surfer Laird Hamilton and movies like Riding Giants and Step Into Liquid. Beginners and experienced surfers alike rave about feeling safe with lessons from identical twins Tide and Kiva Rivers, who own Rivers to the Sea. The waves at Hookipa Beach Park are a bit more manageable (at least from April to October), and those who simply hope to take a dip should head for Baldwin Beach Park, adjacent to Paia's skateboard park, or Baby Beach, a mellow bay. Yoga aficionados will want to pose with former Hewlett-Packard executive Jennifer Lynn at Studio Maui, a state-of-the-art yoga studio that can accommodate up to 110 participants. Locals (ahem) can buy two classes and get one free--otherwise, it's $12 a pop.
Shopping: When Argentinean designer and Haiku resident Tamara Catz was asked if an awareness of fashion was growing on Maui, she replied, "Yes--people are starting to wear shoes." The dresses at her boutique average around $180, but there are worthwhile seasonal sales in the store and on her website.
Nightlife: Charley's is a honky-tonk joint dedicated to patron saint and local resident Willie Nelson. On occasion, Big Willie does sing here, though it's generally only announced the day before--and tickets go in an hour.
No Ka Oi Magazine : Holoholo Adventures: For planning your next Maui getaway—where to go, what to do, where to eat, whom to call
Find Five Corners in Ha‘ik¯u: What you’ll see: vines overtaking the road, yoga studios, surfmobiles, roosters What to bring: Maui road map, mosquito repellant (if near wet areas), cash for fruit and flower stands
Hana Highway gets all the press, but Ha‘iku’s side streets boast almost as many hair-raising S-turns, fragrant jungle vines, and stray cows. Ha‘iku’s “Five Corners” is a mythical place, much like the Bermuda Triangle, where unsuspecting travelers are swallowed up and spun in circles for eternity. But don’t be frightened; the five- cornered intersection of Kaupakalua, Pe‘ahi, and Ulumalu Roads is a beautiful place.
Start in Makawao, by purchasing a Komoda Store (3674 Baldwin Ave., 808-572-7261) survival kit: a Maui road map and half a dozen world-famous cream puffs. Get into the Ha‘iku swing of things at the 4th Marine Division Park (Mile 2, Kokomo Rd.). Nicknamed “Giggle Hill” for the WWII marines stationed here who took a fancy to the local ladies, the park now hosts a new set of gigglers: kids pumping madly on three swing sets. Community volunteers gathered to build an imaginative playground, complete with spy tower and octopus arms. Knock yourself out.
Afterward, soothe any aching muscles with a $25 student massage at Spa Luna (810 Ha‘iku Rd., 808-575-2440). Once a busy pineapple factory, Ha‘iku Cannery is now a town center of sorts, with a spa school, yoga studio, grocery, and several restaurants. Nearby, at Pauwela Cannery, you can spy on Da Kine Hawai‘i (375 W. Kuiaha Rd., 808-575-2495) sailmakers as they devise the next big thing for windsurfers. If you’re running low on cream puffs, Ohashi General Store (410 W. Kuiaha Rd., 808-575-2141) supplies refreshments.
For those low on fuel, Toma Garage (1073 Ha‘ik¯u Rd., 808-575-2652) appears like an oasis—the only gas station for miles is a charming throwback to days gone by. Proceed with caution to Five Corners. Stay focused. Eat a cream puff. You’ll pass a private compound fenced in entirely by surfboards—Ha‘iku’s hippie version of Marlowe’s Heart of Darkness. You’re now deep in Ha‘iku. Abandon any hopes of getting cell phone or radio reception. Pull over and pick some wild guavas. Hit Hanzawa Store (1833 Kaupakalua Rd., 808-572-8337) for another taste of local life: hot dogs and spam musubi. Colorful mom-and-pop shops like this were once the mainstay of island households. Opened in 1915, Hanzawa’s is as busy as ever. From here it’s a straight (relatively speaking) shot back to your starting point in Makawao. Good luck. If you get lost, remember: the journey is the destination.
Don’t want to leave? Stay at: Ha‘iku Plantation Inn (555 Ha‘iku Rd., 808-575-7500, www.haikuplantation.com). Walking distance from Ha‘iku Cannery, this charming old plantation home gives guests a real taste of country life: coconuts, bananas, and sugar cane are picked fresh from the gardens for breakfast.
FODOR'S Travel News
Can you get a room in paradise for under $200? Whether you're headed to Lanai or Kauai, Maui or Molokai, the answer for savvy travelers is "yes." In fact, some of our favorite inns, lodges, and villas are on the affordable side, in great locations with generous amenities and warm Hawaiian hospitality. Here are our top value recommendations.
Maui
Ha'iku Plantation Inn Water lilies and a shade tree bedecked in orchids greet you at this forested bend in the road. A remnant of Haiku's plantation history, this gracious estate was built in 1870 for the company doctor. A feeling of wellness persists---revered Hawaiian healer Kahu Lyons Naone teaches traditional medicine and hooponopono, literally "making right," on-site. A small massage hale stands beside a thatched roof gazebo in a lush garden of ulu (breadfruit), lilikoi (passion fruit), sugarcane, bananas, and pineapple. Rooms are uncluttered and charming with private baths; the Plumeria room has a claw-foot tub.
Maui News
Haiku B&B first to be OK’d under county’s new rules
Haiku Plantation Inn breezes through process with support of neighbors
WAILUKU - The first of many applications under the new bed-and-breakfast ordinance had an easy time winning approval at the Maui Planning Commission Tuesday. The planner who handled the application, said he knew the proposal by John and Sandy Camou for Haiku Plantation Inn would be an easy one. All the public testimony was favorable, even enthusiastic for Haiku Plantation Inn.
The Rev. Kedar St. John of Temple of Peace Healing Center, a neighbor, said: "We really need to have these types of facilities in our neighborhood." Students and teachers can stay there conveniently, he said. Patrick Boyd of the Maui Animal Rescue and Sanctuary, also nearby, pleaded for approval. The sanctuary has incurred additional expenses, he said. That's because, when veterinarians come to volunteer their services, they now have to stay far away, and the sanctuary has to, at least, rent a car for them. "It is not only tourists that are affected by the closure of Haiku Plantation Inn," he said.
The inn, at 555 Haiku Road, had been a permitted bed-and-breakfast since 1986, under a series of owners and Land Use Commission special use permits.
Maui News Mahalo nui loa to all our guests for such wonderful warm comments.
POSTED: September 7, 2009
Visitors enjoyed stay and bed and breakfast
Just a note from the Mainland about our stay on your fair island from Aug. 12 to Aug. 21.
We discovered many wonderful spots such as the Iao Needle, Haleakala, windsurfers at Hookipa, red beach at Hana, the Pools of Oheo, La Perouse, Baldwin Beach, etc.
But perhaps our biggest discovery was the Haiku Plantation Inn bed-and-breakfast, where we stayed except for one night in Hana. What a great experience that was. We felt like we were at home.
We have been to Kaanapli/Lahaina before and won't return. The massive hotels, throngs of people and lack of authentic local culture are big turnoffs. Give us the Haiku Plantation Inn, the great restaurants (especially Paia Fish Market) and the real ambiance of Upcountry.
We'll be alerting our friends in the Denver area about travel possibilities on that part of Maui. We suspect you'll have more visitors.
Charles and Debbie Newton
TRIPADVISOR.COM
Guest Comments:
We stayed for a holiday weekend in Haiku Plantation Inn and were wonderfully impressed. Being from Hawaii, we are sensitive to authenticity and to quality of the experience...and I found that Haiku Plantation Inn offered us both. We arrived to friendly and considerate hosts which made us immediately at home. We were early off the plane, but they offered us coffee and a place for our bags nonetheless before we went off on our day long bike ride. When we returned, there were cozy spaces to tuck away so each couple felt hospitality and some privacy. In the morning, we were delighted to find a delicious homebaked quiche..every day is different. This would be my first choice when I stay in Maui. I want to keep it to myself...but I can't help sharing what a wonderful time we had and how at home we felt there. -Melissa and Jim
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Sandy & Becca made me feel like I was at home. I loved staying at their beautiful B&B...I can't wait to return! Not only are the people and house amazing, but your staying in one of the nicest areas on Maui! Staying at a big hotel is the same no matter where you are in the world...for a real feel of Hawaii...STAY HERE!
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My wife and I stayed at the Haiku Plantation Inn, and we both agree that our 7 night stay at this B&B contributed substantially to our enjoyment of our week in Maui. Like most B&B aficionados, we like to stay at B&Bs partly because of the personalized attention and advice we receive, and Sandy Camou (the owner) a long-time resident of Maui, did not disappoint. For instance, on one hike Sandy guaranteed we would be rained on, so we were able to dress appropriately. We expect our hosts to be able to suggest food and activities that fit with our interests, and advise how to best prepare for and enjoy them. Sandy's restaurant suggestions alone were priceless.
Haiku Plantation Inn is an 1875 Hawaiian Plantation/Colonial style house which has been substantially restored by its prior owners, a process being continued by Sandy. While we were there she bought some paintings and a wood statue which will add to the authentic Hawaiian motif. The 2 acre grounds are lush and beautiful, including a cute fish/frog pond. We enjoyed a relaxing hour in the outdoor Jacuzzi after a day of hiking.
At Haiku Plantation Inn, an excellent and extensive continental breakfast was included. Every day we had a wide selection of fruits (some from their backyard) muffins or sweet breads and healthy cereal. My wife and I were on a diet that required skim milk, which they were happy to furnish. Of course there was coffee, juice and a remarkable selection of local and standard teas. Tea and light snacks (bread or cookies) are available the rest of the day. Sandy is an interesting and knowledgeable person who, whenever possible, spent time with us and other guests at breakfast and during the evening. There is so much to do in Maui we usually left after breakfast and did not get home until after supper. We spent little time watching TV, but there was a large TV in the common area, with cable, and lots of books featuring local culture and history.
Haiku Plantation Inn is located maybe 20 miles from the Kahului airport, a few miles from the coastal town of Paia, and about a mile north of the tiny village of Haiku. Haiku Plantation Inn is in a quiet, secluded location on the northern edge of Maui, at an altitude of 300 feet maybe 1/2 mile from the ocean. It is far (in spirit) from the resort area of the west coast of Maui, but any place on Maui is easily accessible. We had supper at a restaurant highly recommended by Sandy, Pho Saigon (excellent quality 3 course meal, drinks and tip under $50), in Lahaina on the west coast, and were home in 45 minutes.
In summary, our stay at Haiku Plantation Inn was a wonderful and truly memorable experience, as well as an exceptional value. We felt we were as close to experiencing the “real” Maui as you can get in a week visit. Two thumbs way up!
Guest Comments : What our guests are saying.....
Many thanks for going out of your way to make my stay extra wonderful! I appreciate your generosity of spirit and all your efforts to accommodate my needs and desires! breakfast, internet, tea, wonderful books..... I wish the best to you : Marina
Love and Blessings to you and this special spot. The upcountry is where it is best and we will be back. Happiness to all who stay here! : The Hardy Family
Thank you for such a wonderful stay in this lovely inn. The hospitality, food and surroundings were all first rate! We look forward to a future stay in our new house in upcountry, the Haiku Plantation Inn: The Peisners
From the relaxation in this peaceful place.. to the birthday cake, champagne, and hot tub it was great! Mahalo, .... must I go back to reality? Maui is God's paradise on earth: Tina & Marcelo
What can I say.... home from home... Had a great stay and gone all too fast. Thanks for all your help and guidance... If you have a chance to take a lomi lomi massage... TAKE IT.. WOW!: Martin
You extended yourself so warmly that it really made our stay here in Haiku special. Your flexibility with our hours and needs was great. Wishing you continued success and thank you for everything!: The Smiths
Thanks for such a wonderful stay! I really enjoyed the beautiful setting, the tranquility and the yummy breakfasts! I loved hearing the wild birds and seeing the stars at night! Beautiful! See you next time: Lorissa
Only 7 days and we took in so much thanks to your guidance. After each adventure it was so comforting to have a welcoming "home' to come back to and rejuvenate. We had a fabulous vacation. Thank you for the "traveling breakfasts" and always a warm welcoming smile. Mahalo and Aloha: The Cupples
Ha´iku Plantation Inn: Maui's all Hawaiian Bed and Breakfast Inn 555 Haiku Road Haiku, Hi 96708 808-575-7500 email: haikuplantation@aol.com County Permit: BBPH2009/007
Haiku, Hi 96708